Thursday, September 1, 2022

The TCK Who Spread Her Wings, and Passed Them to her Daughter.

 





This morning, I took my youngest daughter, Melanie (Mel, Mel-Mel, Mel Bell) age 20, to the airport.  She is flying to Hawaii to start a new life.  She has a house with three roommates, and will work as a dental assistant until January.  At that point she will start classes at a community college, and eventually transfer to the University of Hawaii.  I’m so excited for her, but a little bit sad (perturbed?  annoyed?) because, believe me, there have been plenty of naysayers.  Are you going to let her do that?  Aren’t you worried about her?  It’s so dangerous!  It's so far away!  That’s not right!  That’s outrageous!  What a terrible mom you are!  (Okay, no one actually said that last one, but that is the vibe I’m getting).  What the heck?  It’s not Timbuktu for pete’s sake, (which is really a place!) and it’s actually (news flash) a part of the United States.  People do live there.  A lot of them. (Okay, snarky rant is over).

 



It must be that TCK thing – once again I am the outlier, hitting my head against the social norms of my birth country, experiencing cultural homelessness, and having that pesky three-dimensional view of the world.  Is it so bad that I want my kid to experience another culture?  At least she has the added benefit of looking like a native Hawaiian (having been born in Kazakhstan).  She visited last summer with her boyfriend, and many people thought she was kanaka.  It surprised her at first, but then became a comfort.  It totally makes sense for her to long for inclusiveness, to not be the odd one out.  Maybe she inherited some of my TCK DNA. 

 When I was 18 and graduated from high school in Singapore, my mom put me on a plane, headed to London, to go to summer school and nanny for a family there.  As we waited at the gate (the old days before TSA) mom noticed that there was a group of athletic looking guys milling around.  She found out somehow that they were the Dutch National Soccer team (I was flying KLM) heading home to Holland after a tournament (Hup Hup!) She was on full mom alert, thinking about how those handsome sporty fellows were going to be interested in me and all that. Turns out none of them spoke English, and there was no romantic escapade where I ran off to live the WAG* life with a dreamy Dutch footballer.  <sigh>

After mom left me, there came an announcement that the flight would be delayed until the next morning, and we would all be given hotel rooms for the night.  I could have called mom, but, hey, why not have a night at the fancy Hyatt Regency?  When I got settled for the night, I tried to call mom to tell her my whereabouts, but there was no answer.  Again and again for a couple of hours, I called, with no response. 

I finally decided to call a family friend (actually the husband of the woman I was going to be staying with in London) to go over and see if mom was all right.  We lived in a 5-story townhouse, and, after no response to the doorbell, he proceeded to throw pebbles at the window.  Mom was in the den with the TV turned up, and was sort of surprised to see him there.  Phone calls were made to London, and all was well.  I was back at the airport via bus early the next day.  Off we (finally) went.

The long-haul flight took us to Bangkok, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, and finally to Amsterdam. I remember peering out my plane window marveling at all these exotic places, and wishing I could hop off to explore, but I stayed put.  (They wouldn’t let us get off anyway).

We arrived in Amsterdam at 1 in the morning.  No flights until the next day.  I decided to follow the crowd from the flight, asking questions of my fellow travelers, and found that we were to be taken to a hotel for the rest of the night. Again, I had a (not so fancy this time) hotel room where I half-slept and half kept one eye on the clock, afraid I would miss the wake up call.

Back to the airport we went, and I, weary and travel-worn, finally arrived in London. All this was waaay before cell phones and the internet were even a twinkle in someone's eye.  We had to make <gasp> long-distance calls, or maybe send a telex (google it, kids!) I may as well have been in a covered wagon; a very fast, air conditioned one. 

Stone Age Telex Machines

After a couple of jet-lagged days, I decided to figure out the route to my school (Richmond College).  My friend Judith drove me to the underground/bus station, said “Bye!” and drove off.  No hand holding was done.  I just marched in, bought a bus pass, and studied the map.  After a fairly long and involved bus/tube ride, I had to walk a ways up a steep hill to the campus.  It was a Harry Potter-ish building, ornate and stately, and I marched in, registered for my class, and checked out the lay of the land.  I was in ENGLAND!  I couldn’t believe it. There was even a PUB across the street.  


Richmond College

My motto ever since then has been “Worrying about The Thing is far worse than the Actual Thing”.  I had worried about the trip and the adjustment for weeks beforehand.  As the journey, with all its warts, was under way, I realized that this was easy!  I had made it.  What was the worst thing that could have happened?  Other than being bumped to a hotel, twice.  The eye candy in the form of European soccer players didn’t hurt either. 

Before long I was a pro at riding the double decker bus through London, past Kew Gardens, to Richmond.  The ticket-seller and I became friends. I took a Sociology class from an American professor, with two other classmates, one being a member of the Bahraini royal family.  One day when I was only one to show up, the professor told me that it was common for assassins to throw bombs into the classroom of a target, sometimes royalty.  Thanks; I'm  never coming back (but I did).  

The prince kept to himself, driving past me in the rain, in his tricked-out I-Roc Camaro, which was not at all out of place on the streets of London. (Sarcasm).  I stood at the lowly bus stop as he hit a puddle and water sprayed all over me. He never said a word, or even looked in my direction.  Interesting guy.   

In the afternoons, I would fetch the two children, Rupert and Clare, at their schools, walk them home and make lunch.  We went to the neighborhood park, where I taught them to make daisy chains.  They were sweet kids, and I really enjoyed taking care of them.  The whole summer, before college, was an eye-opening, exhilarating and insightful experience.  I may or may not have met a dishy British guy named Patrick who swept me off my feet. Turned out the only good thing about him was his accent, so lesson learned!

I suppose when Melanie broached the idea of moving to Hawaii I was, at first a little skeptical.  But as we spoke, I remembered my 18-year-old self, having had the opportunity to travel literally half-way across the globe, alone, and learn to be an adult and do The Thing. Most non-TCK people would be skeptical or shocked that I would send my kid off across an ocean.  But to me, it was something that Mel needed to do.  She needed to experience The Thing herself, perhaps run into roadblocks and one-way streets, and learn how to navigate. Will it be hard?  Will we get teary phone calls?  Sure.  But allowing her to spread those wings is the most important gift that I can give her, just like the gift my parents gave me.  Those wings I had were more valuable than gold.  I think they will look just perfect on my daughter.

Aloha, Melanie!

 


*Wives and Girlfriends


Tuesday, June 28, 2022

The TCK and the Loss of a Friend

 



I received the very sad news that a dear old friend from high school died this morning.  I knew he was very ill for a while; nevertheless, the news of his passing was a shock.  I reached out to other friends to express my sadness, but I still need a way to express how special he was to me.  Not in a romantic way, but in a way that I will always remember as a close friendship with a kind, funny, friendly guy who always radiated happiness and positivity. He had a million friends in high school, so I don't claim to be anyone special, but he was special to me.  

It was a long, long time go that I first met Mike.  The chronology is a little fuzzy, but I believe it was sophomore year.  He was a year behind me, but we ended up in a Science Fiction class together, Miss Ambrosio was our teacher (the tiny details your brain hangs onto!)  Somehow we paired up to do a project.  The subject I can't remember, but it involved a slide show and a tape recorder; a "science-y" story or script of a radio play.  There was an image of sun-dappled water in a swimming pool.  Mike used to come to my house, or we'd sometimes meet at his, where we would brainstorm ideas until we had a pretty good result, we thought.  

My house was in Forbes, his in Urdaneta, (for those who remember) and he used to walk me home from his house, or at least accompany me to the main road catch a cab (some things I don't remember).  One time he invited me to a youth group get-together, sponsored by Union Church.  My family belonged to a different church, but I looked forward to the meeting.  His lovely mom welcomed me into the house, and was so cheery and sweet, welcoming me warmly to the group.  I can remember her face so clearly. We played a game, where we held a piece of newspaper behind our backs and tried to tear out the shape of a muscial note.  I must be pretty dexterous, because I "won" the game.  

Later on, maybe my junior year, I tried out for the spring musical, "Hello Dolly".  I met this really cute guy during tryouts, and we dated for a while.  He was one of the leads, and I was in the chorus.  It was a heady time for me, as he was pretty popular, and teen-idol cute.  Right before the play's production, he broke up with me; terrible timing.  Mike was part of the stage crew and he knew what was going on.  I was clearly sad and mopey, sitting alone in the dark auditorium during breaks in the rehearsals.  He would come sit by me and offer a shoulder.  

One evening after play practice at the theater, we walked to the highway together (EDSA, for those who were there) to catch cabs to go home.  As we waited, a car with one headlight approached, and Mike said "PERDIDDLE!" and gave me a peck on the cheek.  I had never heard of this little game .. how fun!

My family was moving out of the country after Christmas.  I went to the Winter Formal with Mike's best friend.  In the meantime, Mike had fallen hard for the beautiful girl who eventually became his wife.  I was trying to get Mike's attention to say good bye, but he was completely focused on his new girlfriend.  It was a sad evening for me, to be leaving all my friends and the school I had come to love, but I tried to be a good sport for my date.  I hope I wasn't bad company.

Many, many years later, I ran into Mike at a reunion in San Jose.  I was so happy to see him so happy with his high school sweetheart (and with 6 children!)  He still remembered my blue eyes (full disclosure, they were blue contacts all along!)  He was still the funny, friends-with-everyone guy of my memories.

I can't put into words the grief and the sense of loss we have for classmates from our TCK lives who have left this world. For some reason the bonds we share with these friends are stronger and more intense than most.  Probably because of the unusual circumstances in which we lived, and our having been immersed in the vibrant and exotic cultural antithesis of the all-American teenager.  The In Memoriam list from IS Manila has grown far, far too long, and even though I know these losses will happen more and more as time marches on, it helps to know that we can share our sorrow with our barkada*.  We once again gather together (albeit digitally) to mourn and reflect, and remember. We will never forget.  

Fair winds and following seas, Mike ... Thanks for the special memories that I will always cherish.  You were unique in so many ways, and completely unforgettable.  My heart breaks for the ones you left behind; I wish for them peace, and that they will find some comfort in their memories of you, a great man.  


We kinda had the same weird sense of humor.  

*group of friends

Wednesday, January 19, 2022

An Oldie But a Goodie

Just moseying through my blog, and found this one from 2011 that I never published.  Enjoy!



Let's see, when we last met our intrepid heroine, (am I a heroine?) she was sitting in an empty apartment, movers poised to scoop up her stuff and send her off to points west.  (Go west young woman!)  After a very long several days of driving, she arrived at her destination in the land of tumbleweeds, cowboy boots and armadillos, as did her household goods (after a few hiccups).  Presently she headed even further west for her pre-honeymoon in Hawaii, after which she and her beloved headed to Wyoming where they tied the ceremonial knot and are now betrothed for all time.  And here she sits.



I am a frequent reader of several message boards for Third Culture Kids, and I'm always on the lookout for a blog topic.  Yesterday was the move-in day for freshman at Trinity University, where I matriculated all those years ago.  It made me think about my feelings on that day in 1978, when my parents loaded up my two suitcases and the thousand pounds of Sears Roebuck purchases (bed sheets, clip-on reading lamp, etc.) into a borrowed Suburban and dropped me off.  I tried not to think about mom and dad returning very soon to Singapore, which may as well have been on another planet.  In one way I was excited about shedding the parental rules and regulations that had been such a big part of my life up until then, but on the other hand I was still a little girl inside, needing my parents to just "be there" for me, even though I didn't want them to "be there" too much.  One day after cavorting all over campus attending one orientation function or another, I returned to my dorm room to find that mom and dad had been by to see me, and had left a note.  I knelt down on the floor next to my bed and sobbed my heart out that I had missed them.  I knew the days were short that they were in my immediate vicinity and I was bereft.  It was a one time thing, though ... soon enough I was immersed in social activities.  My suitemate, Sarah, and I went walking around one evening, looking for a card game.  We met a couple of guys from the dorm across the way, and ended up playing blackjack in their room.  They had all the latest music playing, Foreigner, Boston, Aerosmith.  They laughed at me when I said I had never heard of these groups.  And laughed again when I told them I had no drivers' license.  "What kind of rube are you?" they were thinking, I'm sure! 

One of the guys was from Staten Island.  He was as much a fish out of water in Texas as I was.  He was a nice Jewish boy, going to a Presbyterian college far away from home.  For some reason, we both felt (I found out later) that we had met before.  It was an instant friendship, and quickly became an instant romance.  We were joined at the hip, going on a tubing trip down the Comal River, and eating lunch and dinner in the refectory.  When he feigned ignorance about doing laundry ("how much water do you put in the machine?") I offered to help, but I was just as helpless as he was.  I managed to turn all his underwear pink.  (Well jeez, I always had a "lavanderia" do all my laundry!)

We went to a football game one night, we we sat an discussed our future plans.  He told me he was pre-med, and I took his hands and told him they were surgeon's hands. (Cheesy much?)  He tried to teach me how to drive in his enormous green Cadillac, but gave up pretty quickly.  He took me to concerts (Boston and Aerosmith) and tried to educate me on all that I had missed living overseas.  He made me play "Double Vision" over and over and taught me to love Foreigner and Joe Jackson.  ("He's so ugly!")  We ate at McDonald's and Wendy's and my indoctrination into the life of an American teenager was complete.  

Every Sunday my roommate got a call from her parents in Illinois. My phone calls were once a month, if that.  I had to learn to do things on my own, like make a doctor's appointment, make plane reservations to go home at Christmas, shop for groceries.  I had to budget the $50.00 per month that was my allowance.  It was complete immersion, and boy did I learn a lot.  

I will tell you the end of the story: that boy from Staten Island, who held my hand as I swam through the early months of "re-entry" to the states, and held me when I cried with homesickness (where was home really?) is now my husband ... a small miracle for this Third Culture Kid.  How did we get here?  How did this happen?  You can't make up this stuff!

So to all you new freshman, TCK or not, good luck on your new journey.  College is an easing-in stage of life.  You will learn not only academics, but the ways of the world.  Sometimes the world hurts you, a lot, but sometimes you will want to embrace it and jump for joy!  You are so lucky that you can now Skype with mom or dad or whomever, even if they are on the other side of the world.  At any rate, enjoy! and take life by the tail!




Wednesday, July 1, 2020



July 1, 2020 ... what ride it has been.  I began working from home on March 13 ... and it is already July.  At first I was counting the weeks, but I've let that slide; they all seem to blur together.  It was a novelty, working from my study; I could get out of  bed at 8:25 and be at my computer by 8:30 (in my pajamas!)  All the jokes about my car getting a month to the gallon .. ha .. all the memes about the virus have started to get very stale and unfunny.  I'm tired of these words: 

COVID-19, coronavirus, flattening the curve (or in my case, FATTENING the curve!  I miss those stairs at the office!) facemasks, stay at home, front line (on which two of my children are working: grocery store and Starbucks), wash your hands, social distancing, PPP loans, CARES act ... quarantine, lockdown, hand sanitizer. 

In February, when it looked like there was a possibility we would be working at home, one of the attorneys for whom I work asked me about some type of software to put on their laptops.  She said, "If we are quarantined, we probably will need to have that".  I thought, at the time, "Really?  Quarantine?  I don't think so." That idea was so absurd and outside any wheelhouse of which I have ever been a part.  Denial is not just a river in Egypt. 

Word has it that people in countries that mandate the BCG vaccination (against tuberculosis) have generally seen smaller numbers of COVID.  (Footnote: It also has a fancy French name: Bacillus Calmette–GuĂ©rin). It's good to know that both daughters from Kazakhstan had the shot. (Of course, not verified by any science). Melanie was offered a 30 day LOA from Starbucks, but chose to stay on.  Knock on wood, she's been healthy the whole time.  Takes me back to the early days at home with her, when her TB test was positive, and she had to have a chest x-ray (ever seen how they x-ray babies?) and then a 9 month course of isoniazid.  I knew that she had antibodies that caused the positivity, but the health department had to err on the side of caution.  



My sister was very ill early in March, after a trip to Houston. Things broke out there right after her trip, and her illness had all the earmarks of COVID. She is looking at getting tested for antibodies.  Every time I have a slight cough or a headache, I wonder if "this is it".  

Some days I feel pretty good about things; counting my blessings.  I have a house, I have food to eat, I have a job and can pay the bills.  I am completely aware of how fortunate I am.  I grieve for those in the service industries, for those who can't pay the rent, who are out of a job, who are hopeless and have real fears for the future.  I wish I could open my house to everyone who is in trouble.  It is astounding and tragic what is happening to my country, to my world. This isn't just us Americans .. it's the entire planet.  My husband always said the end of the world would probably come in the form of a virus.  Don't think I haven't battled dark thoughts on a regular basis, probably like most of us.  

Other days I feel anxious and caged. My mom has had some health issues ... her 90 year old heart finally said, "I'm tired!  I can't go on any more!"  A trio of medications and a procedure have worked together to keep her ticker behaving, but my sister and I are at the precipice of losing our mother.  I don't mean to be morbid, but we all are going to die someday; it's not something you can avoid. On the way to the hospital the first time (there have been three admissions in a month) she was telling me who to give her stuff to.  Not now, mom, not now. 

On the bright side: my daughter Lisa got married!  Even in the middle of all "this".  The virus curve flattened just enough for her to have a small wedding in North Carolina, before it un-flattened again right afterwards. It was beyond emotional for me to see how she has blossomed into a beautiful woman.  How far she has come since 2001, when we crossed oceans to meet her and make her a part of our family.  She also graduated from college (such as it was .. no ceremony of course) and starts the new season of her life as a Mrs. They are still so very young and have a lot of life experience to face together, but I am confident they will be fine. Saying that I'm proud is a massive understatement. 
 

I've never seen two people more excited to be married!

Engagement party!


The next big event is Melanie's 18th birthday!  We are trying to find something special to do for her, but things look pretty dour.  Some day I want to take her back to Kazakhstan, and I always earmarked it for after she turned 18.  Not this year ... but she WILL be celebrated in some fashion or another.  

There have been many other difficult family issues that I won't hang out with the laundry for the world to see. Everything is magnified because of the virus and the current lockdown.  I am usually able to keep my depression demons at bay, but they seem to be more and more insistent on letting themselves in. It is a daily struggle to pull myself up by the proverbial boot straps, and put one foot in front of the other.  I know I'm not alone in this. I am an eternal optimist, on the whole, but "this" is a real life suck.  On the other hand, our four dogs think that everything is great!  Our people are here all the time!  Awesome. Ah, to live life like a dog.  To love unconditionally, and to be ecstatic and tail-wagging at the mere sound of the door opening and the people you adore walking in the door.  

It seems a lifetime since I was in the Philippines.  I shudder when I think about the virus knocking on the door while I was there. Mother Nature was like, "Volcano, shmolcano.  I'll show you a natural disaster!"  News from Manila paints a dark picture of containing the virus there; the density of the city is a giant petri dish of transmission. The news is bad, bad, bad.
  

Bottom line ... My TCK barkada has been able to stay connected through social media; we look at pictures from January, and marvel at how long ago that seems. Every post or reach-out by one of my friends is a tiny beacon of hope.  It's good to know our third culture is robust and connected. We are all so different, but so much the same. It is comforting to have a "place" where we belong, belonging being something that was so elusive to us when we were young. 

Saturday, February 15, 2020

A Trip To Manila ... and Finding My Home

NOTE: most of the photos here are my own, others were shamelessly borrowed from friends, or attributed to the owner when possible.

Welcome to Manila!!


So, Liz, your “Recovered Third Culture Kid” fans are waiting with bated breath to hear about your trip!  I’m sure your jet lag has passed by now; what the heck is taking you so long? 

I’m glad you asked! Yes, the dragon-like, multi-horned and scaly, hideous beast that is jet lag has been permanently exorcised from my brain.  I don’t remember it being quite the soporific, coma-inducing incubus that it was before.  No amount of sleeping potions would make me sleep at night; but oh boy would I sleep during the day! It finally, finally left the night before I was to return to work.  A reparative, delicious slumber.



How to begin?  My dear husband unfortunately had to stay behind due to illness.  I missed him so much, and longed to share my feelings and reactions to being in the Philippines with him.  We were able to stay in touch due to modern technology: a wonder of telecommunications called Viber. 


Somewhere over the North Pole (or Russia)




On the 3rd of January, I flew from Austin to Detroit, Detroit to Seoul, and Seoul to Manila.  Let me tell ya, those Koreans have made life so much easier for long-haul travelers. I don’t know about you, but there’s something about a 14-hour flight that makes you want to de-louse when you touch down.  Is it the pressurized air that you breathe?  The exhalations of strangers around you that cause the accumulation of that unnamed, insidious muck that covers you when you arrive?  What is it?  I had heard that there were showers at Incheon Airport … and I was on a heat-seeking mission to find them.  And I did!  Up in the transit lounge, you walk in, grab a towel and find an empty shower room (hopefully the person in the occupied ones remembered to lock the door!) and … glorious, cleansing, steaming water to wash away your travel sludge. Every damn airport in the world should have them. 

As we were landing in Manila, I was riveted to the window, watching the night city sparkle nearer and nearer, and wowed to myself at the lights floating on Manila Bay. By that time I was so tired, and ready to be there, but the adrenaline was doing its thing, and I was giddy with anticip …

... ation. 

My dear classmate Norbie had volunteered to do the airport retrieval for lots of us; thank you so much for making my arrival so painless!  The Manila Peninsula is still there; it was where my parents and I stayed in 1978, when we flew back from Singapore for my graduation from IS Manila. I saw the balcony above the lobby where my boyfriend and I had said a sad goodbye.  (Truth: he was a blind date a friend had set me up with for the senior prom.  We had a very fast (less than a week!) and intense relationship!) 








The next morning, I met up with the four Mulcahy sisters – I had been friends with Mary, and when Mitch was unable to come, I asked if I could be a Mulcahy for the week, and they happily “adopted” me!  Thank you sissies! We went on a walk to a small open-air market with a group, led by our fearless leader, Rick Velayo, the Kissing Bandit.  You may ask .. WTH? I’ll tell you! Rick has created this persona that has lasted through the years.  He told me once that long ago, someone was taking a picture of him and a classmate, and as the count went down, three, two, one, he suddenly shifted and kissed her on the cheek, making a photograph that lives in infamy.  He gives you a kiss on the cheek and you win a button!  The KB lives on.  I personally have accumulated two or three buttons over the years at reunions.  It’s all aboveboard, get your mind out of the gutter. We all love Rick.  And now he’s famous!


With the Kissing Bandit, and old friend Russell S.
I can’t remember every single thing we did; my brain was in a whirl.  I remember shopping at Greenhills (north of Manila) and going a party at a friend’s house.  Another friend was happy to lend me his driver (I know, I know, only a TCK would think that was normal!) to drive by my old house on Cambridge Circle.  Not the same house any more, sadly.  Like I said before, a slight tropical breeze would have knocked it over back when we were living there; no surprise it’s been replaced.

There was lots of sitting in the lobby meeting up with old friends and new ones; chismis-ing (chatting in Tagalog) and just enjoying being there. The conversations easily flowed like silk, smooth and comfortable.  It was an eclectic mixup of all the hundreds of people from Facebook that I had only known in pictures, and the ones I did know, either from school or reunions. There were squeals and hugs and Oh my god!s.  The peninsula became chismis central … a meeting place, a drinking place, a remember when place, all serenaded by the tinkling of the keys from a piano on the mezzanine.   

On Sunday there was merienda at the lovely home of our guidance counselor, Vicky SyCip Herrera.  What can I say about Vicky?  She has been the glue of our school; she taught us Composition and later became a counselor. There was something about her that I’ve never seen in a guidance office here in the states.  She and her crew knew how to deal with us TCKs and all of our issues.  One friend I ran into told me the story of how when he first moved to Manila, he was apathetic, depressed, and not eager to go to school.  He would be dropped off in the morning and then hightail it over to a little bistro near campus and just sit and drink beer.  After a few weeks of his truancy, the school (and his parents) caught on.  Rather than punishing him or expelling him, Vicky and the headmaster said, okay, we’re going to help you.  We’re going to get you caught up with your classes, and encourage you, and be there for you.  My friend felt that he mattered, that someone cared about him and he responded to that.  He was able to start going to classes and excelled.  I could say that the US could learn something from this, but that’s too big a hole to jump into. 


The iconic Vicky Sycip Herrera
I brought Vicky a copy of my book; after all I got my writing chops from her Freshman Composition class!
Vicky has a room in her house that is covered, floor to ceiling, with pictures of her past students.  We all had fun finding ourselves (some of us – me – were horrified!) and reminiscing. 

At the end of the afternoon, I met up with Clenia Dimanche, the widow of the priest at our Episcopal church in Makati. The church was a short walk from Vicky’s house, and Clenia and I meandered over there, hand in hand.  She is one of the sweetest, most elegant Filipina ladies that I know.  The story is that her husband, Gaby, was a Belgian Jesuit priest (Catholic) sent to teach in a school in the Philippines.  One his students was young Clenia.  They fell in love, and he left the church to become an Episcopalian priest.  They had three beautiful children, and both had a long career as the leaders of Holy Trinity church in Forbes Park (in addition to Gaby’s career on the Board of Directors at ISManila, and at the Brent School.)  My parents and I were faithful congregants of the church all the years we were there (okay, I was somewhat reluctant – I was a teenager, for Pete’s sake).  I was the first female acolyte there, part of the youth group, and taught Sunday school to the little kids.  For all the changes in Manila, Holy Trinity remains the same, a tiny microcosm amidst the Big City.  My father had been a part of the committee that built a columbarium behind the sanctuary, and I was proud to see his work still standing after all this time. 














After that visit down memory lane, I was driven by yet another friend's driver to the Urdaneta apartments to join a party thrown by siblings who are the third generation of their family to live in Manila.  One of the sisters still lives there and is a family physician; another sister had been in my French class … their brother I had met when he visited Austin once.  They were so generous to host a get-together for us; the pool-side area was chock-a-block with people dancing and mingling with their barkada, new and old.

I fell, exhausted, into bed as soon as I got back to the Peninsula; the next day marked the beginning of the official school events.  Buses took us to the new campus in Bonifacio Global City (or for the hip people in Manila, “BGC”) where we wandered agog at the state-of-the-art building that resembled a highly endowed university.  Seriously.  Tennis courts on the roof!  Two (or maybe three) swimming pools.  Robotics lab … little theater that could have competed with Carnegie Hall.  We listened to a lecture about the Battle of Corregidor, and ate lunch in the cafeteria, which could pass as a millennial urban bistro. Former school sports stars reunited on the playing fields and basketball courts to see if they still had their mojo.





Well loved by so many!

That night was a cocktail reception in the ballroom of the Peninsula.  There had to be 600+ people in there, and it was more chismis-ing and mingling.  Surprisingly, every event meant meeting more people that I had missed at the other functions.  The vibe in the room was electric … so many familiar faces, so many more hugs and cries of recognition and bear hugs. While we “old folks” were there in masse, we could pick out the young ‘uns who graduated more recently; they were just as ecstatic to be there as we were.  After that (if you are tired just reading about this, imagine how I felt!) we went to another hotel in Manila for a karaoke party!  Or should I say “Rockeoke” party.  Let me tell you, there are some extremely talented people who went to my school!  It was not the “bad” singing that you usually encounter at karaoke; there were some Broadway stars there!  Any talent scouts there would have taken home a treasure trove. 



Just a few of our closest friends.
Photobombing!


Tuesday morning my body said, when presented with idea of getting up, said Nope.  I listened to it, and ordered room service, taking my time to reenergize and recharge my batteries.  It had been a lot.  And there was more to come. My constitution is a little less lively these days, and I was pushing it to the limit.  I ordered room service, “Filipino breakfast please!” that included rice and eggs and beef and mango and calamansi juice (of which I had a lot while I was there). It was divine. There’s just something about eating garlic for breakfast that is quintessentially Filipino!  Love it.

Filipino breakfast!

That afternoon was a bus tour of Makati and environs, including BCG.  We found the place where Our Old School had stood, now Century Mall, next to Trump Tower.  We did find the famous plaque which memorializes the old IS Manila … but it was disorienting to find ourselves surrounded by concrete monoliths.  No one could really envision where the school had been.  Which way was up?  That part was very sad for me.  I get that big cities make progress, and progress involves replacing the past, and improving on infrastructure.  The Manila I knew was gone, with flashes of familiarity here and there.  Far fewer open spaces with lush green landscapes and palm trees (though there are some!)  Heavy sigh.  

We drove to the American Cemetery, which I remembered being not far from our house.  Having made the dive into genealogy recently, I found that a cousin of my mom’s had been a pilot during the war.  He was flying wounded soldiers from somewhere in Australia to somewhere else, and his plane was shot down.  There, among the names of soldiers, Marines and sailors whose bodies were never found was the name of William P. Ragsdale, Jr., along with 30,000 (yes, thousand) others, (Americans, and Filipinos) who were lost during World War II.  There are too many names, carved on curving marble walls.  The heroes whose bodies were found are buried in immaculate concentric circles.  That part of Manila is the same, and will never change. 






We ended up again at the school … there was to be a huge variety show in the Little Theater and we settled in for skits and music. Much to many of our surprise, the Kissing Bandit performed the song “Manila” by Hotdog, surrounded by a crowd of dancing girls. We recognized the oldest alum attending the reunion, who was from the 1940’s, and the lovely Ming Ramos, the wife of the former President Fidel Ramos, who never quit her job at the school, and told us that since the President’s wife didn’t get a salary, she had to work!  We heard about how President Quezon had helped 1100 Jews escape the holocaust. We saw how many of our classmates who dated in school actually married each other.  We laughed, we cried.  It was the show of shows.   

From the theater, we were serenaded by a marching band as we made our way to the “Barrio Fiesta” that was set up on the school grounds.  Dancers in native garb lined the way to the dinner, and a band played traditional music all the while. 

Wednesday began with a Filipino cooking class for our class, 1978.  Thanks to Jos Ortega, Grace Jong and Bong Bernas (who did I leave out?) for putting this together.  We were kitted out in special shirts and aprons, and learned to make Chicken Adobo, and Leche Flan.  Afterward the restaurant served up a 6-course meal!  Oof, the food just kept coming and coming!  Lots of fun visiting with our smaller group.

There's always room for dessert! (Chris Cabe Photo)

Chris Cabe Photo
Chris Cabe Photo

Wednesday night was a big to-do at the Manila Polo Club.  My parents hadn’t been members, but I had plenty of friends whose families were, so I spent a great deal of time there.  I remember sitting in the middle of the polo field at night (we may or may not have been smoking or drinking something), looking at the stars.  We had a school Sadie Hawkins party there.  Lots of my friends were seriously into horseback riding, and that was where they spent many an afternoon after school. There was a huge pool and a duck pin bowling alley. (Google it). Back in the day I thought it was pretty chi-chi, and for sure it is even more so today.  The party was in the ballroom and extended outside to the edge of the polo field, with the backdrop of BCG skyscrapers and their cascade of lights. Unfortunately for me, all my binging on Filipino food had caught up with me; the dress I brought specifically for this function would not fit on my well-fed body.  I ended up in a lesser and more casual version of the original … I’m sure everyone noticed (not).  There was music, there were class pictures, and just … being there.  And so, the celebration was over.  The official part, anyway. 


Polo Fields with BGC 




Thursday, we drove in a caravan of minibuses 3 hours south of Manila to Calatagan, where Vicky’s resort, Stilts, was waiting for us.  After seeing it in pictures, we could only gasp at how much more beautiful it is in person.  We all shared cabanas (excuse me, floating cottages over the water) so it was like a big pajama party. The next day, after lounging around the pool, we joined up for a sunset cocktail party and then a dinner under the stars that could have rivalled any wedding reception I had ever been to.  Fire dancers, live music, buffet of Filipino delicacies … it was outstanding in every way.  


Tagaytay, overlooking Taal Volcano





Like celebrities arriving at Stilits.








A cheerful fellow, in spite of his job!

The next day was a visit to a special ed school that had been built with the generosity of the Mulcahy family (including my "sissies", their brothers John and Bill, and all of the Mulcahy grand and great-grandchildren) in memory of their mom, who had volunteered in special ed school when they lived in Manila.  Vicky’s late father’s foundation also helped make the dream a reality.  There are so few special ed resources in the area, and this was a very important contribution to the people of the area.  It was emotional for the sisters, and after the official ribbon cutting and blessing of the building, we were regaled with the children dancing and singing, and lots of speeches of gratitude. It was moving beyond words.
The beautiful SpecialEd building

The Mulcahy ladies: four "sissies" who kindly adopted me!

 Saturday included a barbecue at one of my classmates’ home near Calatagan.  Ricky was the “it” guy in our class, very suave and debonair.  He later became a professional polo player; now he is, among other things, an artist and a politician … he carves wood into charming objets d’art that festoon his house and grounds. There was lechon to eat, (turn away vegetarians!) and paella … delicious in so many ways. 



The view from Ricky's House, with Mindoro in the distance
In the distance beyond Ricky’s hilltop house was the ocean and the island of Mindoro, across the Verde Islands Passage, where my dad used to scuba dive.  My family would drive to Batangas and negotiate with a local banca owner to ferry us across the sea.  One time a storm was brewing, but we set out anyway, only to turn around when the banca was nearly swamped by a rogue wave that nearly killed the sputtering engine. Maybe that’s why I have a phobia of the ocean.

I thought I was going to get some rest at the beach … forget that!  There were more and more “meet me at the pool” and snorkeling trips, and “join us for sunset watching” parties. Each and every sunset was unique in its own way. I had forgotten how awe-inspiring they were in the Philippines.  There are colors on the horizon surrounding the setting sun that I’ve never seen on the spectrum. 

Oh, and lest I forget to mention the volcano …

One evening, I appeared at the Mulcahy sisters’ cabin for a “finish the liquor” party the night before we left.  Beth (one of my “sissies”) grabbed me and pointed off into the distance.  “LOOK!  LOOK!” she said.  Now, I have a pretty long bucket list, but I can state emphatically that seeing a volcano erupt is NOT and never has been on that list.  I am a lover of nature and its extremes, including tornadoes and hurricanes, but I never want to see one of those extremes in person. That includes volcanoes. Everyone on the lanai was watching it spew ash in an otherworldly display; almost like a nuclear mushroom cloud.  As it got darker, the lightning in the plume began to flash in earnest, and there were lots of oohs and aahs, as if we were watching a fireworks display.  No one seemed very worried, and even though inside I was terrified, I kept it to myself. I figured if they weren’t worried, why should I be?  Once I realized my personal safety wasn't at risk, the second thought I had was to remember the Icelandic volcano back in 2010, where people in Europe were stranded for weeks after the European airspace was closed.  I can’t imagine a better place to be stranded than in the Philippines, but having just started a new job, I was afraid that I wouldn’t have one if I was delayed further. 




My third thought was about all the people who lived around the volcano, and how their lives had most likely been affected by this. We had drive through dozens of tiny barrios and towns on the way to Stilts and I imagined that they were covered in ash and people were evacuating to points north. I thought about the beautiful Tagaytay, with its resorts overlooking the lake in which the volcano sat, with scenic views and manicured gardens ... what would be left of them?

Area of ashfall, with our location circled
Not my picture ... 


Early that evening, we heard that we were going to leave first thing in the morning to go back to Manila.  It seemed a little counterintuitive to me to head towards the ashfall (which miraculously missed the tiny promontory on which we sat) rather than away from it, but it was the way to get nearer to the airport.  I had booked a room at the NAIA Hilton (Ninoy Aquino International Airport) so I resolved that I would end up there, stranded or not.  We drove right past the volcano on the way back, which had calmed down a bit, but that was still looking angry and volatile.  The roads were covered in ash, and we all wore facemasks. The ash from a volcano can contain tiny shards of glass from the molten lava: not a good thing for lungs. We stopped at every Mercury Drug store to stock up on extra masks, but they were all sold out. “Walang Facemasks” became the theme of our journey, “out ob stock”. The airport was shut down for the immediate future, “until further notice” so there were a lot of unknowns ahead. 


The volcano as we drove by on the way back to Manila

Cavite Police on duty
Ash covers Manila


We made it without incident and checked into the oh-so-opulent Hilton.  The pool and patio were closed due to the ashfall, but I didn’t care about anything other than taking a nap and checking the Delta app to make sure my flight was going to leave the next morning.  We all met up once again for dinner (I groggily tore myself out of bed one more time) and said our goodbyes.
Miracle of miracles, the runways were cleared of ash overnight, and the airport was open.  The volcano had settled down to a dull roar, and everything looked good for an on-time departure.  I didn’t have much trouble checking in (and clearing out the souvenir shop near my gate) and we even took off a little earlier for Narita.  Quick stop in Japan, and it was off to Detroit, then home to sleep for a week (see above).

Are we there yet? (and yes I busted out the sheckels for an upgrade - cheaper when bought last-minute!)


As it is oh-too-common with these grand events that are planned and anticipated for a long time, it was all over too quickly, and coming down from the high was difficult.  Looking back, I realized that there were times during the celebrations when I felt a little of the high school ennui creep back into my consciousness. Occasionally I found myself alone, separated from the ones I knew, with that same fear of “damn, who will I sit with” only to hook back up with the friends shortly thereafter.  I found out that some people had done things that I would have liked to have done and had missed the boat, because there simply wasn’t time to do everything. I felt anxious, and the clock was running out too quickly.  I realized that I would probably not return to the Philippines any time in the near future, if ever. I guess the sense of closure, while emotionally healthy, was on some level sad beyond measure.  I like the word “ennui” because it’s really not something you can put a finger on, other than calling it “cognitive dissonance”.  It’s unexplainable.  It’s “saudade”, the untranslatable Portuguese word that I have tattooed on my arm, a feeling of longing, melancholy or nostalgia; a feeling that has no cure.  There is no place to go to satisfy or lessen those feelings.  There is no “home”. Going back to a place is not the solution; we can’t escape carrying our longings with us.  And most of the time we don’t know what we are longing for. Our house was gone, the Intercontinental Hotel, where most of us stayed before our furniture arrived, was gone, the school was gone, our TCK infrastructure was just .. gone.

The "Intercon" as we knew it

Oy vey, drowning in my existential ennui (there it is again!) here. For us, “home” is not a physical place.  But then I think about non-TCKs, and how they grieve when their childhood home is sold. That place may have been solid ground for them, but the “home” that they are grieving is what happened in that place, and the people who lived in it, not the building itself.  (My mom gets furious when realtors talk about ‘new homes’ because they aren’t homes, they are houses!)  “Home” for me was and is the corporate body of people who attended the Centennial Celebration at IS Manila with me.  That whole group of 1000+ people, all the way from the 1940s students to the 2000s, they were home. 

During the “variety show” the head of the Board of Directors of the school spoke about how we, when we return to Manila, slip into speaking in a Filipino accent.  In some cases that could be seen as disrespectful or racist, but for us, it is a loving tribute to the Philippines and its people and reminds us of how we bloomed and grew in that place.  We love and honor our common history and the third culture that we formed when we lived there.